Andreas restaurant: RIP?

Andreas, which closed temporarily in 2022, now closed permanently?

Andreas Restaurant has reigned for decades as the favorite dining establishment on the East Side of Providence, R.I. Maybe not the best restaurant east of the Providence River, but surely the best on Thayer Street, often considered the Main Street of Brown University, and the first place most people turn to for a fine meal they needn’t cook for themselves.

We all have our favorite Andreas stories. I met my first wife, Tracey, there in 1990 (she was reading The Sheltering Sky [1949] by Paul Bowles.) I dined there often with my second (and last) wife, Victoria, whom I met at the IGA in 2003. I got behind her in the checkout line and asked her if I could help her eat the pile of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream she was buying. With an ex-boyfriend nearby, she politely declined, but I met her again and over the next year or so woo’d her and won her. That’s the very short version of a fine origin story, which I’ve probably told more than three dozen times over meals at Andreas with or without Victoria, whose family ate there whenever they wanted to eat out.

Andreas was famous for its comely waitresses. Now we’re not allowed to say that, but it was okay for many years until the owner, or one of the managers, or so I heard, got in trouble for favoring attractive waitresses. For shame! Lookism is, I believe, the name that the woke have given to my crime. But I got away with fondling Andreas’s waitresses with my eyes for at least three decades before I began to feel any guilt for my thoughtcrime. Never managed to ask any of them for a date. No touchee!

In the 1980s, I once dined outdoors at Andreas with the famous Soviet dissident Vladimir Bukovsky along with several student conservatives from the Brown Conservative Union, or some such title. For that matter, I think it was Bukovsky. Time fogs all rear view mirrors. Mine has been foggy for, I believe, seven decades.

Long ago, also in the 1980s, I began an evening of drinking with Sheldon Whitehouse, then Rhode Island’s junior U.S. senator, at Andreas. He had been introduced to me by my colleague at the Journal, Irving (“Shel”) Sheldon (no relation). We bumped into each other on the sidewalk outside of Andreas. Whitehouse and I started there and went on to The Hot Club, or some such place, where we met a tipsy young lady, name forgotten. Every other word she uttered started with the letter f. She and I left Whitehouse to his own devices and went to a downtown nightclub called One Step Down, where we planned to play a game of pool (this was, thank God, long before I had my own pool table overlooking the Plunder Dome at Loft 501 in the Smith Building, or who knows where we would have ended up and what the f I might have contracted). On our way into One Step Down, she met a gang of motorcyclists of her acquaintance parked outside. She began a-smooching them one after another to beat the band. I never saw her again, or at least not knowingly. I never saw Whitehouse again, either, I don’t think. No big loss. Shel and I are still friends.

Andreas closed down for seven months to remodel back in 2021, and reopened that November. Andreas first opened up in 1966 and has served authentic Greek fare ever since, along with tasty cuisine from elsewhere. It has long featured outdoor seating along Thayer and Meeting streets. In the warmer months the parade of pulchritude is no less than astonishing. All night long. Thayer is narrow so the parade redoubles on the other side, beyond an always annoying twin string of parked SUVs – always SUVs, it seemed – which always blocked the view. Were I king of Providence, I would enact legislation to ban SUVs from parking parallel to an outdoor scene on Thayer, or any other street with a sidewalk dining scene. That goes against my political instincts. In a foul mood, I would extend this ban to parking spots outside of window seating indoors. Go ahead, try me!

Well, Andreas’s phone is disconnected, and you can find a smattering of stories online that attest to its closure. I hope it’s not shut for good – though why remodel twice in four years? If it reopens, I’ll be back!

About David Brussat

This blog was begun in 2009 as a feature of the Providence Journal, where I was on the editorial board and wrote a weekly column of architecture criticism for three decades. Architecture Here and There fights the style wars for classical architecture and against modern architecture, no holds barred. History Press asked me to write and in August 2017 published my first book, "Lost Providence." I am now writing my second book. My freelance writing on architecture and other topics addresses issues of design and culture locally and globally. I am a member of the board of the New England chapter of the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art, which bestowed an Arthur Ross Award on me in 2002. I work from Providence, R.I., where I live with my wife Victoria, my son Billy and our cat Gato. If you would like to employ my writing and editing to improve your work, please email me at my consultancy, dbrussat@gmail.com, or call 401.351.0457. Testimonial: "Your work is so wonderful - you now enter my mind and write what I would have written." - Nikos Salingaros, mathematician at the University of Texas, architectural theorist and author of many books.
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5 Responses to Andreas restaurant: RIP?

  1. jkabala1980 says:

    Sorry to be that guy, but you must mean “now Rhode Island’s junior senator?”

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  2. Eric Daum says:

    As a highschool student in the 70s, it was a reliable place to get a beer without being carded. We thought we were so mature…

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    • That was before my time, Eric. What about the Hungry Sheik – you remember that place? Do you remember “the Wall”? Where teens used to hang out. Victoria says she remembers it well, and was one of its habitues. Hope you are well. I’m about 98 percent done with my second book, which I’ve been working on for a year – if you don’t count my earlier existence. I wonder whether you’d be willing to read it. I’m thinking you would try to locate inaccuracies, or things I may have left out that ought to have been addressed, or angles that I have missed or matters on which I am mistaken? It is a jeremiad against modern architecture, disguised as a history of architectural disputes and commentary. I’d love to have you look it over. Anything I need to know from this week’s chapter meeting? Were you there? I missed it. Hope you both are well. Cheers, David v >

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    • Eric, Can you please look at my reply to your comment on my Andreas post? I have made a suggestion that I wish you would consider. David

      Sent from my iPhone

      >

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      • Anonymous says:

        I would be delighted to. I am pretty crunched these days for time, but if you can be patient, I would love to take a look!

        Like

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